I then used Goo Gone and continued chipping away at the remaining glue with my thumb and fingers. That softened it a little bit and very small pieces started rubbing off as I continued my physical assault on it. Then I vigorously rubbed Mineral Spirits paint/varnish thinner into it (had to first call the manufacturer to confirm it really won`t hurt the clear coat). One has to get as much tape as possible during that step to leave the remaining residue as thin as possible. I heated the tape with a hairdryer starting at either edge and little by little, rolled it up into a ball using my thumb. Had I realized it sooner, I could have completed the job in half the time. What I realized in the process (and as some of you mentioned as well) is this: there is no one perfect method to get it off one has to use several.
I`ve also tried lots of the over-the-counter stuff and none works for me. Use a small polishing pad with a rotary, if necessary, to polish that area. Keep the residue/hardened deposit moist with thinner for 5mins. Use cotton bud to dab the problem area with thinner. Less drastic method, much slower, but workable. Then, just soak any remaining gummy residue in cleaner wax, wait 5mins, and rub it off with an old but soft rag. The residue will be abraded off immediately!! Simple and easy. When you operate the drill or electric screwdriver, that rubber thingy will rotate.Īs it`s rotating, lightly CONTACT its rotating surface with that stubborn residue. Hard rubber.įind a way to attach this rubber thingy to your electric drill. It`s for domestic use, and its used as a stopper to prevent your door touching the wall. You know that round, short and stubby door stopper made from rubber? Simplest, fastest but most unorthodox and very unprofessional method. I encounter lots of this problem as many cars have their side "plastic window visors" removed, leaving behind lots of that sticky, semi-hardened stuff. I have gotten very little of the tape off so far and am extremely frustrated. I scrape the edges and they move up a little but but not much. I used my wife`s nail file but the angle of the tape`s positioning is such that I can`t try to file it without coming in contact with the paint event if I mask off the area around it. I then used Goo Gone and when that failed, some WD-40 and that too, did nothing. I first tried just scraping it off gently with my fingernails which didn`t work, whether I tried it cold or after heating up the tape with a hairdryer. The trim came off very easily but the tape simply doesn`t want to.
It seems to have been installed with some extremely sticky double-sided tape at the factory MUCH worse than what I have bought OTC in the past to attach badges etc. My problem is this I recently removed some chrome trim from the gas tank of my new motorcycle. It has been a long time since I`ve posted here even the look of the forums has completely changed in the meantime. APPLICATION TIPS: Ensure your surface is smooth, clean and dry for the best bond.NO MESS OR TOOLS: Use instead of nails and screws.EASY TO APPLY DESIGN: Great for do-it-yourself projects.INDOOR OR OUTDOOR USE: Application temperature 50☏ to 100☏.SURFACES: Designed for Painted Drywall, Painted/Finished Wood, Metal, Acrylic, Smooth Stone, and Painted Concrete.HOLDS UP TO 30 LB: Features 3M™ industrial strength adhesive (To hold 1 lb use 2", To hold 30 lb use 60").SUPERIOR BOND: Delivers a superior, conformable bond on contact.MAXIMUM STRENGTH: Our strongest tape for our toughtest jobs.So whether you’re mounting artwork in your new apartment, or adding wall organization to the garage, Scotch-Mount™ Extreme Double-Sided Mounting Tape does the job quickly, easily and without the hassle of tools. It's weather resistant for a long lasting bond, indoors and outdoors.
Equipped with our powerful permanent adhesive, this double-sided tape defies gravity, holding an item up to 30 pounds. For your toughest jobs, go for our strongest hold–Scotch-Mount™ Extreme Double-Sided Mounting Tape with its 3M™ industrial strength adhesive.
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